<--Me and Ma'alem Omar El Hiyat after his performance at the Gnawa Music Festival in Essaouira
Once again, I found a little piece of paradise in Essaouira. It's interesting how so much of an experience of a place has to do with one's mindset; when I first got here in May, I felt stir crazy and uninterested in being here. But now, perhaps because the timing is right, I am really happy to be back. With the sound of the ocean, the seagulls, the perpetual sunshine and beautiful white and blue medina, it's just what I need.
Thank goodness the festival is over and most of the tourists and Moroccan visitors have emptied out. It was difficult just to walk through the streets and I heard many stories of thefts as well as knife fights, 50 Moroccans injured, and two killed. Thankfully, the main problem for tourists is (just) the extremely bold thieves who will grab a camera direct out of someone's hands unless it's attached to its person. I was able to get ahold of a special VIP badge again this year through personal connections which allowed me to enter a restricted area just in front of the stage. Even so, a great number of other people also had badges through friends so although it was safer, it was no much less crowded.
The opening concert of the festival was by far the best, given by Hassan Boussou, the son of one of Morocco's greatest ma'alems ever, and a grand master himself. The following night was excellent also as I saw an acoustic, intimate concert given by Omar El Hiyat, another reputable ma'alem from Essaouira and one of my favorite ma'alems with whom I had an interview last year while living here. Ma'alem Omar reminds me of my dad for some reason and he's particularly animated, with a round face and twinkling eyes. It was a delight to see him play a small venue. The third night, I went to a similar, acoustic concert given by ma'alem Seddik and I was tickled to get to see him perform and “support” him as a kind of student of his.
I had some difficulty finding a nice play to stay until just yesterday when, through a previous contact here, I was able to rent a beautiful apartment in the medina with a private terrace from where I can hear the ocean and sit in the sunshine. Because the patron is a friend, he gave me a good price. Hopefully, I will be able to stay here for some time. It is such a relief to once again have a secure, private place to stay where I enjoy hanging out. Since I arrived in Morocco in May, I haven't had much space or time completely to myself so I have been yearning for peace and quiet and a place where I can shut the door and not be disturbed for an entire day. El hammdolilah. And although I haven't minded the cold bucket baths while squatting over a hole in the ground, it is a treat to have a "real" hot shower again, too. That's one of the wonderful things about being here; you come to appreciate the very simple, basic things which give great satisfaction.
