Saturday, July 10, 2010

More evenings at Seddik's

Ma'alem Najib and Ma'alem Seddik marching and playing in the Gnawa Festival procession


Whenever I don't have something planned in the evenings, I'm still going by Ma'alem Seddik's regularly. Last night I went by again and thought about how much it has changed since I lived here six months between 2008 and 2009.

Back then, I was always a bit in the background, recording and listening in on conversations but more of a friend and studious observer. The regular guys showing up to play are no longer there and now that I can get by with French, I'm making conversation and trying to participate more. But the most noticeable difference which I most enjoy is that while the guys are busy playing Dominoes in the wood shop, I non-chalantly walk back to the music room and pick up one of Ma'alem Seddik's large guimbris to practice on: the feel and sound is quite different from my small one.

Last night I did that very thing. One of the older men, who goes by “Sherrif” came back into the music room to chop kif because the usual places to sit were taken. I had a feeling he was also curious to listen in but he acted like he wasn't listening to me fiddle around and play. I am getting more and more brave, less and less timid about my mistakes in front of the men. Then I began trying to sing with my playing, which is the next step and requires the most amount of coordination. I saw Sherrif nodding his head at one point, which made me smile but also made me screw up. At one point, Hassan came back into the music room and I asked him to help me sing the call and response and work the transitions. Sherrif joined in, too. I started screwing up more but enjoyed being able to be more part of the action going on there and for the guys there to see me making an effort.

We took a break later and ate some fried fish with the ma'alem and chatted. Our conversations are often the kinds of memories that I laugh about years later. Last night, as we were eating the fish, the conversation turned towards the effect of fish on one's bowel movements. I thought he was just joking around with me but his face was serious. Nobody else was chuckling except me but Hassan flashed me a smile. I changed the subject by talking about the pictures in my apartment: the aparment I'm staying in belongs to a friend of Ma'alem Seddik's so there are actually a few old pictures of Ma'alem Seddik and Najib hanging on the walls: pictures from one of his Italian tours.

There was also talk of lilas since this is the time of year to find them. I mentioned that I'm focusing in on Moulay Abd el Qadir and the ma'alem said I will need to buy a white chicken to sacrifice for Moulay because the animals sacrificed for him are always white. Insha Allah, there are some rich experiences coming.